‘Polyculture’ sounds like something they might practice in Utah. But here, in the highest hilltop in the Rhone Valley’s St. Joseph appellation, it refers to creating a harmonious environment for growing grapes by encouraging biodiversity. Wildflowers, grasses, and fruit trees grow in and around the vines. Meadows and grains fill other open spaces. The result of all this attention is a supple, dark-fruited and lively Syrah. In short, a not-so-little wine at an amazing price that happens to be both biodynamic farmed.