Podere Le Boncie "Le Trame" 2018
One of the new generation's best Tuscan wine makers, Giovanna Morganti farms a tiny 3 hectares (7.5 acres). Il Cinque ('the five') is blended using five grape varietals used to make the finest Chianti Classico: Sangiovese with Colorino, Mammolo, Fogliotanda and Cilegiolo. Giovanna’s father was a legendary oenologist who believed in Tuscan varietals long before the “flying consultants” identified this area as a profit center. Podere Le Boncie is situated in the hamlet of San Felice which itself is located a handful of minutes north of Castelnuovo Berardenga, in the southern tier of the Chianti Classico zone. Giovanna studied oenology herself and went to work in the mid 1980s for San Felice wines in Castelnuovo Berardenga, near Siena, on a project to plant around 300 traditional Tuscan grape varietals collected from old vineyards. When Giovanna’s father gave her a small farm with olive groves, called Le Boncie, she added a vineyard planted with her favorites from the experimental project – Sangiovese, obviously, but also Ciliegiolo, Colorino, Foglia tonda Mammolo and Prugnolo. Giovanna’s flagship wine—formerly a “Chianti Classico” but proudly a “Toscana Rosso” since she wearied of the red tape and exited the appellation in 2012—comprises almost entirely Sangiovese, head-trained and densely planted, with splashes of interplanted indigenous varieties (Colorino, Mammolo, Foglia Tonda, and Ciliegiolo), all planted in the late 1980s. Fermented in open-top oak casks and aged in a combination of large botti and 500-liter barrels (all well used), “Le Trame” expresses powerful, punchy minerality and a purity of fruit—robustly healthy, untampered fruit—that soars from the glass.