An exciting new voice from Saumur. Forteresse de Berrye is the project of Gilles and Sandra, who left behind chemicals and started farming organically in 2021 (certification expected 2024). They’ve gone all in on biodiversity — replanting missing vines with high-quality selections and integrating agroforestry across their hillside property just south of Brézé. The vineyard sits higher than much of the surrounding area, on tuffeau limestone with thin topsoil — ideal for Chenin. The result? Wines with energy, clarity, and quiet depth. Winemaking is minimal. ‘Les Bourgères’ is fermented in a mix of concrete and old barrels, with no heavy manipulation. The wine isn’t pushed or forced — it’s allowed to be itself. Gilles works with longtime friend and enologist Olivier Barbou to express the terroir with honesty and restraint. The 2022 Saumur Blanc shows freshness and subtle texture, with that Chenin forest-floor thing we love. This is only their second or third vintage, and it’s already impressive. One to watch.