Harmand Geoffroy Gevrey Chambertin 2015
The Harmand-Geoffroy family has worked the land in Gevrey-Chambertin since the end of the 19th century. Although their wines have always displayed an attractively unforced classicism—a 1993 “Clos Prieur” served blind last year was everything one could ask for in mature red Burgundy—they have made notable strides in terms of precision, balance, and expressiveness over the past five years, due in large part to improvements in their cellar work: employing better temperature control during fermentation; managing extraction with greater gentleness and sensitivity; eschewing pumping and moving the wines by gravity only; and refining their oak sources and barrel regimens. The wines today express the telltale meat-and-mineral core of Gevrey-Chambertin with a combination of robust power and an almost glowing clarity of fruit, and the widely varying terroirs are always vividly differentiated, even in the richest of vintages. The vast majority of Harmand-Geoffroy’s holdings are between 55 and 95 years of age (some are even older), and the wines offer a wonderful concentration commensurate with these extremely old, low-yielding vines. Add to that the fact that the family vineyards sweep across the entirety of the appellation from north to south thus providing a rare and breath-taking immersion into the fabled terroir of Gevrey Chambertin. Amazing vintage. They are undoubtedly the greatest wines we have ever had the pleasure of purchasing from this domaine.