Etna at altitude hits different—and San Lorenzo, sitting at 750 meters on volcanic sand and crumbled stone, delivers the goods. This is one of Russo’s most lifted and precise crus, planted to old-vine Nerello Mascalese with a touch of Cappuccio. The 2021 is all about elegance and clarity: rose petal, sour cherry, orange peel, and crushed herbs on the nose, with fine tannins and that signature volcanic tension that runs through the finish. Compared to Feudo or San Donato, this leans more high-toned and perfumed—but still firmly rooted in the north face’s structure and depth. Drink it with a light chill and a long dinner. Roast chicken, lentils, mushroom things. Or just pour a glass and sit with it.