Hirsch Renner Kamptal Gruner Veltliner 2013 (1.5L)
Biodynamic Austrian white by lone wolf Johannes Hirsch. His gruner veltliner falls somewhere in the nexus among Bründlmayer’s and Gobelsburg’s glossy gleam and Hiedler’s juicy sensuality” writes Terry Theise. In addition to biodynamic practices, Hirsch utilizes soft pruning, a method he learned in Alto Adige to minimize the amount of cuts and thus lessening the amount of tissue exposed to disease and old wood near the pruned area. In the vineyards, manure from celebrated cheese maker Robert Paget’s water buffalo and goats, grazing in the pastures in front of the vineyards, are used. At harvest, a rigorous selection is made in the vineyard and clean grapes harvested by hand, without botrytis are placed in small bins. The winery is located in Kammern, a short distance from the vineyards, so the fruit is pressed a very short time after it’s picked. Yields are very low, especially for the single vineyard wines, which are between 35 and 40 hectoliters per hectare. Grapes are always whole cluster pressed without crushing. ‘Hannes favors a long pressing rather than a short one, echoing fellow respect member Bernhard Ott’s feeling that the stems are “part of the wine too”. The basic wines and and village wines are normally fermented and matured in stainless steel while the Erste Lage wines are done in a mixture of steel and oak, depending on the vintage. In a warmer vintage, for example, more stainless steel may be employed. Fermentations are done with ambient yeasts and always without temperature control. “One of the plagues of modern wine is uniformity. Cooling is one of the worst things you can do, in this regard.” says Hannes.