Carillon Chassagne-Montrachet 2017
Jacques Carillon produces among the most focused, mineral-drenched, age-worthy white wines in the Côte de Beaune. The 2017 vervy but still with depth. The Carillon family traces its viticultural roots in Puligny back to the sixteenth century. There are documents from 1520 attesting to the presence in that locale of Jehan Carillon. The estate has always been run with a scrupulous regard and respect for the traditions of Burgundy and has achieved renown as a producer of the most classic, often understated but always compelling, wines of this village. The Carillons have always applied the most rigorous standards to their work in the vineyards, affecting a near organic methodology. No herbicides are used; the earth is turned by plow and by hand, the vines are pruned short to control production, a severe debudding is practiced and a green harvest is practiced when deemed necessary. Harvest is always manual, a pneumatic pressoir is utilized, fermentation and elevage occur in barrel for at least one year, batonnage is done (judiciously!) and, before bottling, the wines are racked into stainless steel cuves for six months to settle and clarify. The dual goals are to produce ageworthy wines that are intensely expressive of their respective terroirs. They have managed to achieve those goals with stunning regularity.