When we heard Milan Nestarec’s wife had started her own project, we had to try it — and we’re so glad we did. This is her Cabernet Franc: elegant yet wild, with layers of laurel, anise, juniper, pepper, and red and blue fruit. On the palate, it’s fresh and lifted, with silky tannins and beautiful structure. The fruit comes from 23-year-old vines on the southern slopes of the Křižák vineyard, grown in clay soils. Everything’s done by hand — spontaneous fermentation in open barrels with three weeks of remontage, then 11 months in 225L oak. Bottled unfiltered with just a touch of sulfur. Only 14 cases made it to New York — and we’re thrilled to have a bit.The label features Mary Wigman, the expressionist dancer, with her iconic quote: “We don’t dance history, we dance feelings.” That about sums it up.