There’s a small group of California winemakers that everyone in the wine business respects. Or more frankly, a select cadre of which we are in awe. Peay is one of them. They succeed in marrying a European sensibility for complex, elegant wines with a distinctly North Sonoma Coast sense of place. Not exactly a surprise given their winemaker Vanessa Wong used to make wine for Peter Michael. The Ama Pinot Noir combines the generous fruit one expects of the West Coast (but not ‘juicy’) with delicate floral notes so reminiscent of the complex noses of French Burgundies. This is one sophisticated wine.