Absinthe still sounds transgressive, like coming home after a night out as the sun comes up. But Pontarlier’s famous version is hardly bender hooch. This is small batch absinthe made using only locally grown Pontarlier wormwood (considered worlds’ best) along with Spanish green anise seed, Provençal fennel and a variety of aromatic herbs and spices. There is no sweetening added of any kind. Its refreshing taste comes entirely from the combination of plants and of the distiller’s skill. Peridot green color, lightly milky with opalescent reflections. The aromas include bright anise and heady alpine herb notes with lightly mentholated hints of wormwood. Sip slowly and savor.